The following is a quick guide on removing the front door trim on the JZS171 Crown Athlete. I recently had to do this to remove the side mirrors to be painted. Once the door trim is removed, you will then need to remove the tweeter speaker cover which attaches to the whole length of the window frame. Then you can access the 3 bolts holding on the mirror and the electrical connector.
MASTER SWITCH ASSEMBLY
1.a) Use a flat blade screwdriver and protective tape to lever the switch assembly out. 1.b) Detach the electrical connectors for the master switch assembly.
HANDLE INSIDE BEZEL
2.a) Use protective tape and a flat blade screwdriver to lever out the handle bezel from the lock switch side.
3.a) Use flat blade screwdriver and protective tape to lever out the switch. 3.b) Detach electrical connector.
DOOR BOARD TRIM
4.b) Press the centre of the 5 plastic clips gently with a Philips screwdriver and remove the clips. 4.c) Remove the 2 plastic screw covers. 4.d) Remove the 7 screws. Do not forget the screw behind the trunk switch opening. 4.e) Lift the door trim panel upwards and gently move back and forth until the trim lifts out from under the tweeter speaker cover. 4.f) Detach lower light assembly electrical connector and both door handle cables.
Now that the door trim is removed, the tweeter speaker cover can be removed. After this, the side mirror attachment hardware can be seen. The side mirrors seems to be held on by 3 bolts and 1 electrical connector.
Here is a quick guide on how to work out what wheel sizes you should look for when choosing aftermarket wheels for your crown.
JZS171 Crown Athlete V Factory Wheel Specs:
Front Rim Description: 16×6.5+50
Rear Rim Description: 16×7.5+50
Front Tyre Description: 205/55 R16
Rear Tyre Description: 225/50 R16
If you already have aftermarket wheels, gather the information above for those wheels. Rim Diameter, Width, Offset and Tyre Sizes.
On your factory or aftermarket wheels, measure the gap between your wheel face or tyre sidewall and they closest part of the front or rear guard. Call this distance “X” in millimetres.
Using the Willtheyfit website, enter the specs for the front wheels. Then enter the specs of wheels you would like to purchase. For this example, we will use a modest set of 18×8.5″ +30 wheels with 225/40 Tyres.
As you can see in the example above, the new wheels and tyres will come very close to the standard sized wheels in circumference, only adjusting the speedo by an error of 0.83%.
The new wheels will also stick out further by 45.4mm. Compare this measurement to the measurement you took earlier, known as “X”. If this new measurement is larger, the new wheel setup is likely to hit and scrub on your guards. You can either pick different sized wheels or do some custom work to your guards.
Do the same calculations for the rear wheels now.
As you can see, the rear wheels will stick out 32.7mm more than the current wheels. Check this measurement against your “X” measurement for the rear wheel guards. If the “X” is less than 32.7mm, the new wheel will likely hit and scrub on you guards aswell.
I recently replaced the interior halogen lamps with LED’s.
The majority or the interior uses T10 wedge bulbs.
The boot uses a T10 wedge.
The rear number plate lights use a T10 wedge.
The front footwells use a T5 wedge.
The dome light uses a BA9S bayonet bulb.
The 2 front reading lights use a festoon bulb.
The 2 sunvisor mirrors use a fuse type bulb.
The old coilovers were getting worse and worse, so I bought some new ones direct from Japan using the Jesse Streeter service.
The new coilovers are Final Konnexion Limited’s using Front 14kg/mm and Rear 10kg/mm spring rates.
The install procedure was very straightforward, removing the old and fitting the fresh suspension. It can be a little tricky trying to get the lower mount on the front, when the coilover length is set quite long.