The 2nd-hand 19″ wheels are SSR (Speed Star Racing) Vienna Merisia. They look to be a quality 2-piece, made in Japan.
Specifications are as follows:
Front – 19×9+19 235/35
Rear – 19×10+24 245/45
46B24R – GS171 (ALL), JZS171 (Athlete, Royal, Royex), JZS173, JZS175, JZS179
55D23R – JZS171 (Athlete V), JZS177, UZS17#
65D23R – Optional on JZS171 (Athlete V), JZS175, JZS177, UZS17#
80D26R – Optional on UZS17#
More information can be found on the Parts & Cross-Reference page.
My JZS171 came without Cruise Control. Here is a simple guide to retrofitting the factory Cruise Control install. Luckily for our cars, its a fairly cheap and simple job.
DISCLAIMER: I take no responsibility for anything you may break or accidents that may occur due to this DIY Install.
|Steering Wheel – BEFORE|
|Steering Wheel – AFTER|
These parts are all available from Amayama Trading
They cost me around AU$150 delivered to my door and took around 3 weeks from order to arrival. They are all Genuine Factory Toyota parts.
|Parts Needed for Cruise Control Retrofit|
|Cruise Control Parts|
Firstly, I started with the Brake Pedal switch under the drivers side dash. Remove the small trim panel with the OBD2 Connector and footwell light attached. The OBD2 Connector and light can be easily disconnected from the panel. The panel should only be held on by 2 Philips head screws and a little clip in the middle.
|Footwell Trim Panel Under Dash|
|OBD2 Connector and Footwell Light|
Once this is removed, the fun part starts. You need to postion yourself with your head down near the pedals. Make sure you move the drivers seat right back to get a little extra room. Looking upwards from this position you will see the Brake Pedal Switch.
|Brake Pedal Switch|
The Brake Pedal Switch is a small round metal switch with a light blue connector junction and a rod that is mounted into an anchornut. On the forward side of the anchornut is a depressable switch which stays depressed while the foot is off the brake. When the foot is on the brake, pedal moves forward and the arms moves away from the switch and activates the brake lights at its switching point. This is very important, as you will need to make sure its adjusted correctly, to bring the brake lights on at the correct amount of movement on the brake pedal. Try taking a photo of it before you remove it.
Next, remove the green plug from the aft end of the brake switch.
|Brake Switch Connector|
You will notice the plug has 4 sockets.
Next, use the 14mm spanner to loosen the nut holding the switch to the anchornut. You will only need to turn it 1 turn or so. Now that the switch is loose, you simply rotate the whole switch counter-clockwise (looking forward), until the threaded shaft comes out of the anchornut.
|Brake Switch Jam Nut Loosening|
Now you can compare your old switch to your new switch.
|4-Pin Brake Switch vs 2-pin Brake Switch|
As you can see above, the green switch has 4 pins and the blue switch has 2 pins. If you already have a green brake switch, you can safely assume that you will not need to replace it for this guide. The extra 2 pins must be for the brake signal to the Cruise Control, to automatically cut it off when you hit the brakes.
Next, fit the new green brake switch to the anchornut the same way as the blue one came off.
|4-Pin Brake Switch Installed|
Make sure you adjust the switch to the correct length, then do the jam nut up with your 14mm spanner. Then reconnect the green connector to the switch.
Then refit your under dash kick panel trim and your done.
WARNING: REMOVE THE BATTERY TERMINALS FROM THE BATTERY FOR YOUR SAFETY (Only 1 reqd). You will be removing the airbag during the following.
Ok, firstly, you will need to remove the 2 little covers on either side of the steering wheel. They can be a little tricky. Basically I pushed them inwards until the forward end let go and sort of sat inside the steering wheel a little. Then you can release the aft side (closest to you) by jiggling it around a little. I know that’s very vague, but you will see what I mean.
|Steering Wheel Side Cover RHS|
|Steering Wheel Side Cover Removed RHS|
|Steering Wheel Side Cover Removed LHS|
Now you will be greeted by two large Torx Screws. Use the T30 bit to undo the screws, 1 on each side. The screws will not come out, they are held in by a little retainer. Just make sure that they are sitting fairly well out as far as they can, so that the centre of the steering wheel comes out easy.
Next, lift away the centre of the steering wheel. It wont go very far, do not tug on it.
|Remove Centre of Steering Wheel|
Remove the Yellow connector and connector for the ground as you remove the centre of the steering wheel.
|Steering Wheel Airbag Connectors|
To make the next part a little easier, I then removed the little panels with the DOWN switches on them by removing the 2 screws for each. You may not need to do this.
|Steering Wheel Connector|
Next, remove the White 6-pin steering wheel connector. You will notice the BROWN wire and WHITE/BLACK wire both run down to another unused connector on the LHS. This is presumably for factory audio volume switches or something, included on the Royal Saloon or Majesta maybe.
|Unused Connector on LHS|
Carefully remove the unused connector from its mounting point. It has a little push in clip, holding it in. Then cut the connector off the wires as close as you can to the connector.
Now, back to the White 6-pin steering wheel connector. That unused slot at Pin 2 is for Cruise Control signal. We are going to move the brown wire from pin 6, to pin 2. This part is very tricky. You will need a long, very skinny jewellers flat blade or similar to remove the pin. From what I can work out, you slide the flat blade down beside the pin, FROM THE BACK of the connector and looking at the 2nd last picture, it will need to go on the bottom side of the pin. Then looking from the front of the connector, you will notice the white plastic part move away from the locking tang on the pin. Then you should be able to slide the pin out towards the back of the connector.
I not gonna lie, I messed my connector up pretty bad doing this. It definitely helps to have the right removal tool.
Once you have the pin out, gently insert it into the pin 2 slot. Make sure it is locked in.
|Brown Wire Moved to Pin 2 Slot|
Now, the moment you have been waiting for! Get your Cruise Control Stalk ready. Cut off the connector on your cruise control stalk, keeping your red and white wires as long as possible. Then thread your wires and stalk in through the RHS of the steering wheel, into the large gap.
|Cruise Control Stalk Placement|
Then, move it around a little until it feels like its all held into the plastic mould properly. You will notice that there are 2 screw holes that are very hard to get to. Try and fit these first. I had to use a bit of natural elasticity of the plastic trim and bend it quite a bit, to get my screwdriver down beside the steering wheel frame. Its very tricky, but its possible. Short of removing the entire steering wheel (which I tried and failed), this was the only way.
Then you can get it back into place and fit the last screw through to the frame.
|Cruise Control Stalk Mounted|
See where the wiring is routed from the stalk in the last photo? I found that I had to move it from where it comes downwards to the middle, to just above that bottom piece of frame, going down to the right. Between it and where the screwdriver sits in the photo.
Then you will need to strip all 4 of the wires you have in front of you. A brown wire and a black/white wire from the steering wheel connector and a red wire and a white wire from the Cruise Control stalk.
Then grab the splices and crimp them on. You need to join the red wire to the brown wire. Then the white wire to the white/black wire. You could also use a soldering iron and tape these up if you don’t have any splices.
Once this is done, make sure your white 6-pin connector is put back on and your wiring is out of harms way. Then put your trim back on and the steering wheel centre with airbag back on. Remember to connect the yellow connector and the ground connector.
Place the steering wheel centre back on and move it around a little to make sure it sitting right and not squashing any wiring. Then refit the T30 Torx screws on either side of the steering wheel.
Then the finishing touch of placing your new side cover on the steering wheel.
|New Side Cover|
Now, make sure you have fitted any other trim pieces you may have removed.
Re-connect your battery terminals and turn the key in the ignition to ON.
You will notice your dash warnings light up.
|Dash Warnings Cruise Off|
Now press the On switch on the Cruise Control Stalk.
|Push Cruise Control On|
Then you should now see the green light on the dash saying CRUISE.
|Dash Warnings Cruise On|
If you make it this far, then I am assuming you have done everything correctly and your factory cruise control retrofit should work perfectly.
Take it for a drive down the road and test it out.
Thanks for reading. ENJOY!
Well, I only picked up my Crown 2 weeks ago, but one thing that has annoyed me ever since, is the stupid round orange side blinkers that compliance installed into the front guards.
I have thought about either purchasing some used black front guards from Japan, or taking to a panel beater to fill in the holes and respray the guards.
In the meantime, I decided to look for some clear blinkers to replace the orange.
Im not sure about what type of blinker other compliance shops would fit in this particular case, but mine turned out to be a simple round lens with 2-prong bayonet type fitting.
|Orange Blinker Lens Installed by Compliance Shop|
After trawling the internet I found some round clear ones that looked fairly similar.
|Clear Blinkers for ’84-’01 Vauxhall Astra|
They can be purchased from eBay here:
When they arrived, it was a simple case of turning the orange ones counter-clockwise to release the lens, then pushing and turning the clear ones on clockwise to lock them on.
Now I just need to replace the bulbs with some orange wedges or the chrome/amber type. I would prefer the chrome type, so you don’t see the orange through the clear lens, looking like a fried egg.
JZS171 – Toyota Crown Athlete with 1JZ-GTE
JZS171W – Toyota Crown Athlete Estate Wagon with 1JZ-GTE
JZS175 – Toyota Crown Royal with 2JZ-FSE
JZS177 – Toyota Crown Majesta with 2JZ-FSE
UZS171 – Toyota Crown Majesta with 1UZ-FE